Action Directe (climb)
| Action Directe | |
|---|---|
|
The route follows five bolts which are visible on the photo (quickdraws are clipped to the fourth and fifth bolt) and ends with the belay anchor (not visible). The next bolted route to the right, Feiste Fäuste, follows the overhanging crack and is much easier (grade IX). | |
| Location | Frankenjura, Germany |
| Coordinates | 49°38′04″N 11°36′09″E / 49.63444°N 11.60250°ECoordinates: 49°38′04″N 11°36′09″E / 49.63444°N 11.60250°E |
| Climbing Area | Krottenseer Forst (crag Waldkopf) |
| Route Type | Sport Climb |
| Rating | 9a (French) or XI (UIAA) |
| First free ascent | Wolfgang Güllich, 1991. |
.JPG)
Action Directe is a famously difficult sport climb in the Frankenjura, Germany.
While being generally recognized as the world's first 9a (5.14d), Güllich actually gave the route a UIAA grade of XI. It was the first recognised route of the grade, and is considered by many to be something of a benchmark for the grade. It is also famous for its style, involving long dynamic moves off single-finger pockets. Wolfgang Güllich invented the campus board to train the very specific strength needed for this route.
History
Milan Sykora bolted this line in the 80's with a start from the neighboring line to the right. The first ascent (FA) was by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, who climbed the route using a 16 move sequence and a more direct start with a dynamic jump into a two-finger pocket. Dai Koyamada used a different sequence with only 11 moves.
Ascents
The repeat ascents were by:
- Alexander Adler on 9 September 1995.
- Iker Pou on 7 June 2000.
- Dave Graham on 21 May 2001.
- Christian Bindhammer on 14 May 2003.
- Rich Simpson on 13 October 2005 (his ascent has been questioned by UKC, and many other climbing sites [1]).
- Dai Koyamada on 15 October 2005.
- Markus Bock on 22 October 2005.
- Kilian Fischhuber on 25 September 2006.
- Adam Ondra on 19 May 2008.
- Patxi Usobiaga on 24 October 2008.
- Gabriele Moroni on 17 April 2010.
- Jan Hojer on 22 May 2010.
- Adam Pustelnik on 10 October 2010.[2]
- Felix Knaub on 22 October 2011.[3]
- Rustam Gelmanov on 26 March 2012
- Alexander Megos on 3 May 2014 [4]
- Felix Neumärker on 16 May 2015 [5]
- Julius Westphal on 25 June 2015 [6]
References
- ↑ UKClimbing Editorial Team (Dec 16, 2010). "Rich Simpson - UKC's Position". Retrieved December 19, 2010.
- ↑ Wojciech Słowakiewicz (Oct 10, 2010). "Action Directe by Adam Pustelnik!". Serwis Wspinaczkowy wspinanie.pl. Archived from the original on 15 October 2010. Retrieved October 12, 2010.
- ↑ "Felix Knaub hat "Action directe" (11) im Frankenjura geklettert". Retrieved November 23, 2011.
- ↑ PlanetMountain (May 6, 2014). "Alexander Megos, the Action Directe Frankenjura interview". Retrieved May 6, 2014.
- ↑ ClimbingNews (May 26, 2015). "Felix Neumärker Repeats Two 9a's in Three Days". Retrieved May 26, 2015.
- ↑ Toni Lonobile for Wildclimb (June 27, 2015). "Interview of Julius Westphal!". Retrieved June 27, 2015.
External links
- 2nd ascent by Alexander Adler
- 3rd ascent by Iker Pou
- 4th ascent by Dave Graham
- 5th ascent by Christhian Bindhammer
- 6th ascent by Rich Simpson
- 7th ascent by Dai Koyamada
- 8th ascent by Markus Bock
- 9th ascent by Kilian Fischhuber
- 10th ascent by Adam Ondra
- 11th ascent by Patxi Usobiaga
- 16th ascent by Rustam Gelmanov
INTERVIEWS
- Rich Simpson interview on Action Directe
- Dai Koyamada interview on Action Directe
- Markus Bock interview on Action Directe
- Kilian Fischhuber interview on Action Directe
- Jan Hoyer interview on Action Directe (video)